The lighting in the kitchen posed a difficult problem. The ceiling is just a 1 inch foam board covered with sheetrock. Above it is the sub floor for the second floor. So it would be really difficult to run wiring to overheat lighting fixtures.
Our designer, Erica Edwards owner of ELLE Design Studios in Chester Connecticut recommended we check out Tech Lighting’s Kable Lite system. (Here are some photos from their gallery) The system is a low voltage system that is installed as two cables with specific connectors so that you can run it pretty much anywhere you want.
Our plan was to hide a 300W transformer above the corner cabinet and run three straight runs around the kitchen to cover the sink, table and the island.
Our original plan called for three heads over the sink, two pendants over the table and three pendants over the island. To save some money we opted to start with just two over the sink and two pendants over the island.
For the heads, we chose the K-Hello head. It can easily swivel and point light exactly where we want it. You can install a little mesh grid that focuses the light, or leave it out for a wider light field. We installed 7.5w LED bulbs, which give off the equivalent of a 50W bulb.
For the pendant we chose the Brulee pendant in gray. We also chose the LED bulbs for the pendants.
To install the system you first install two turnbuckles 5 1/2″ apart. They have hinges that helped us keep the wires level even though out beams are not smooth/straight.
There were three beams we had to drill through to run the wires through to the other side of the room. I learned a cool trick from Ray Christensen of Ray Lighting in Hartford. First you measure and mark holes on both sides that are at the desired height and distance apart. Now if we just tried to drill through an 8″ beam we probably wouldn’t end up with holes in the right locations on the other side. So we went through about 75% of the way on one side. Then aimed towards that hole when drilling from the other side. Doing this ensured that the wires ended up entering and exiting the beams at the exact desired locations.
We loosened the turnbuckles and connected the wires. Then we tightened the turnbuckles to make the wires nice and taunt.
We left a little extra wire so that we could pull it tighter after the wires had been up for a week or so. We can then clip the wire to give it a nice appearance.
Where the runs of wires meet we installed jumpers specifically designed to connect the wires. We used clear tubing to prevent wires that we didn’t want to touch from touching.
Finally we got to hang the heads and pendants from the wires. This pictures doesn’t do it justice. You’ll have to stop by to see it in person to get the real effect. 🙂